Kate's Photos again

Kate's photos on facebook are now public and the links have been updated so that you do not need to be on facebook to see them.

Observatory of a different kind

A highlight of our few days in India's capital, Delhi, was the Jantar Mantar-A large naked-eye observatory built in the 1700s. Many large curious-looking instruments were designed to predict the movement of the Sun, Moon and Planets for the strongly represented Astrological elements of India's culture.

A large precision sundial indicated the time in Europe, India and Japan.


Two large circular instruments were used for the Solar and Lunar calendars. Shadows from the Sun or Moon, as appropriate, were cast by windows or gnomen. On the lunar calendar there are 14 open windows for when the moon appeared in the night sky.

Another instrument indicated a person's star-sign when they were born.

Several of these observatories were built by Maharaja Jai Singh II including another I visited on a rooftop in Varanasi.

Closing of the border

A day before Pakistan descended into defacto marshall law we made the hour trip from Amritsar to the only border crossing between India and Pakistan-Wagah near Attari. Each day at around sunset a bazaar ceremony of goose stepping soldiers, flag lowering, and slogan cheering is performed at the border.

On each side of the border large grandstands are filled with Indians and Pakistanis out to vent their national pride, and a few tourists like us to witness the spectacle. Imagine a football match between two traditional rivals and you might get some feeling for the build-up in the crowd. On the far side of the Indian gate house we could see the Indian troops warm up for the ceremony with viperous star-jumps as crowds danced in segregated Ladies an Gents only dancing areas.

At the appointed time the dancing crowds returned to the grand stand and the twenty-minute ceremony of salutes, quick marching and throwing of flag strings began. It was very much a competition of national pride and among the most unusual things I have ever seen.

Amritsar is also home to holiest of Sikh temples - the Golden Temple. Just over two years ago, in a curious Hong Kong travel-experience, a man claiming to be a Yogi from the Golden Temple told me when I was going to die. Despite the readings of the Sikh holy books being broadcast across loudspeakers the temple complex was a peaceful place, where many Sikhs come to make their most important and desired pilgrimage. For me, in a strange and much less spiritually important way, this too was a pilgrimage.

Kate's Photos

Kate is putting up a heap of India photos on Facebook. We will add links to the albums in the link section but for those on Facebook here is a link to Kate's albums:
http://www.facebook.com/photos.php?id=671499750

The Waseem Way in Agra

Our original plan was to train across to the Desert city of Jaisalmer but full trains meant otherwise. It seems the trains are a lot harder to get onto than we first expected and experienced. We were saddened to miss Jaisalmer but sometimes, when travelling, things don't go as planned but you land on your feet and something special happens.

After an extra night in Jodhpur we trained to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. This involved a midnight to 6am 'sleep' on bench and floor in a waiting room in Jaipur station regularly disturbed by the ding ding ding ding tada of the Apple computer operated announcement system.

In Agra we were tired and wanted to just get to our hotel. Our Rickshaw Wallah (driver) Waseem introduced himself and from there our three day Agra adventure began. We had nearly dismissed Waseem as just another tout out to make commissions from taking us to hotels etc. Frankly we didn't mind if he made a few extra Rupees on what we paid him for the three days because he was worth it.

He showed us a great time and all of the sites of Agra including the Taj Mahal at sunset from across the river, drinking beers at Green Park restaurant while learning how to count in Hindi (John wasn't so well after three 1l bottles of 8% beer), and Kate DUI the Rickshaw (John was only allowed to drive sober).

What topped the great sites and times was the chance to just trust someone for a few days. All of the time we are told to be on our guard. Understandably many people here are out to make an extra buck from a tourist so any offer of help has one wondering where the catch is and when will you have to pay up. Waseem steered us right (though he did slip up once and took us marble shopping) and showed us a great time for what will probably be the most memorable three days of our holiday.