Kate's Photos again

Kate's photos on facebook are now public and the links have been updated so that you do not need to be on facebook to see them.

Observatory of a different kind

A highlight of our few days in India's capital, Delhi, was the Jantar Mantar-A large naked-eye observatory built in the 1700s. Many large curious-looking instruments were designed to predict the movement of the Sun, Moon and Planets for the strongly represented Astrological elements of India's culture.

A large precision sundial indicated the time in Europe, India and Japan.


Two large circular instruments were used for the Solar and Lunar calendars. Shadows from the Sun or Moon, as appropriate, were cast by windows or gnomen. On the lunar calendar there are 14 open windows for when the moon appeared in the night sky.

Another instrument indicated a person's star-sign when they were born.

Several of these observatories were built by Maharaja Jai Singh II including another I visited on a rooftop in Varanasi.

Closing of the border

A day before Pakistan descended into defacto marshall law we made the hour trip from Amritsar to the only border crossing between India and Pakistan-Wagah near Attari. Each day at around sunset a bazaar ceremony of goose stepping soldiers, flag lowering, and slogan cheering is performed at the border.

On each side of the border large grandstands are filled with Indians and Pakistanis out to vent their national pride, and a few tourists like us to witness the spectacle. Imagine a football match between two traditional rivals and you might get some feeling for the build-up in the crowd. On the far side of the Indian gate house we could see the Indian troops warm up for the ceremony with viperous star-jumps as crowds danced in segregated Ladies an Gents only dancing areas.

At the appointed time the dancing crowds returned to the grand stand and the twenty-minute ceremony of salutes, quick marching and throwing of flag strings began. It was very much a competition of national pride and among the most unusual things I have ever seen.

Amritsar is also home to holiest of Sikh temples - the Golden Temple. Just over two years ago, in a curious Hong Kong travel-experience, a man claiming to be a Yogi from the Golden Temple told me when I was going to die. Despite the readings of the Sikh holy books being broadcast across loudspeakers the temple complex was a peaceful place, where many Sikhs come to make their most important and desired pilgrimage. For me, in a strange and much less spiritually important way, this too was a pilgrimage.

Kate's Photos

Kate is putting up a heap of India photos on Facebook. We will add links to the albums in the link section but for those on Facebook here is a link to Kate's albums:
http://www.facebook.com/photos.php?id=671499750

The Waseem Way in Agra

Our original plan was to train across to the Desert city of Jaisalmer but full trains meant otherwise. It seems the trains are a lot harder to get onto than we first expected and experienced. We were saddened to miss Jaisalmer but sometimes, when travelling, things don't go as planned but you land on your feet and something special happens.

After an extra night in Jodhpur we trained to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. This involved a midnight to 6am 'sleep' on bench and floor in a waiting room in Jaipur station regularly disturbed by the ding ding ding ding tada of the Apple computer operated announcement system.

In Agra we were tired and wanted to just get to our hotel. Our Rickshaw Wallah (driver) Waseem introduced himself and from there our three day Agra adventure began. We had nearly dismissed Waseem as just another tout out to make commissions from taking us to hotels etc. Frankly we didn't mind if he made a few extra Rupees on what we paid him for the three days because he was worth it.

He showed us a great time and all of the sites of Agra including the Taj Mahal at sunset from across the river, drinking beers at Green Park restaurant while learning how to count in Hindi (John wasn't so well after three 1l bottles of 8% beer), and Kate DUI the Rickshaw (John was only allowed to drive sober).

What topped the great sites and times was the chance to just trust someone for a few days. All of the time we are told to be on our guard. Understandably many people here are out to make an extra buck from a tourist so any offer of help has one wondering where the catch is and when will you have to pay up. Waseem steered us right (though he did slip up once and took us marble shopping) and showed us a great time for what will probably be the most memorable three days of our holiday.

The Invincible Fort

Mehrangarh Fort stands high above the blue city of Jodhpur. Thursday, after a night in our luxurious room (recommended by Ashish, who we met on the train) we decided to check out the Lake in town followed by the fort.

Not far from the 500+ year old Sardar Market and clock tower is a large lake with fountains. We wandered around the lake taking photos and meeting a few of the locals. We've promised to send photos and I fear we may end up with a long list by the end. It is inevitable that when people find out we are from Australia the conversation turns to cricket. The locals know a lot more about Australian cricket than Kate (and probably John too).

We met a student during his interval (morning tea) and I think he appreciated the chance to practice his English and learns some new words. We helped a local feed some dough to the fish in the lake before wandering the streets some more.

Once our interest in the streets of the old city was sated we grabbed a rickshae The Fort is over 500 years old and has never been breached though at one time was subject to a 6 month seige. A great audio guide took us through the fort and its history. We roamed the many courts and enjoyed views across the city.

We had arrived in Jodhpur during their state hood celebrations and at the beginning of an international folk festival so there was plenty of cultural activity. Interestingly the locals choose major traffic roundabouts (circles in local lingo) around the city to set up bands and dancers to celebrate so the traffic would compete with the crowds watching on.

Kate: The locals also have no hesitation in striking up conversation with a white lady, and love getting photos with me! One man in particular (when watching the singers and dancers at the roundabout) pulled me into the middle of the circle of people watching so that I could get a photo with the singers and dancers!! They loved it!!! Can't imagine a tourist in Australia jumping up on stage with an artist so they could get a photo during the performance... :)

Escape from Mumbai

With a train ride booked out at 1500 we only had the morning to do some more Mumbai sightseeing. We chose the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Museum, formerly Prince of Wales Museum of Western India. It was an interesting an impressive museum with a good audio guide though curators back home would have a coronary over the conditions that the collections are housed in.

After stopping by for some essential supplies-water, fruit and Indian sweets- we headed back to our hotel to pick up our luggage. Our drive from the hotel to the station was crazy. We had underestimated how far it was from our station but our driver was determined to get us to our train on time. We weaved in and out of traffic, overtaking at speed, cutting in front of trucks and rickshaws. It was all very unnerving but we made our train.

After a kilometer long walk up the platform we settled into our coach for our overnight ride to Jodhpur.

In Mumbai

Our first day in India, in its most populous city-Mumbai. Population one city=population Australia. We had to haggle with the taxi driver at both ends of our ride in.

We start our exploration of Mumbai at the Gateway of India, built to honour the first royal visit to India. I can feel my republican tendancies come out at the thought of such a massive undertaking to comemorate a royal visit. Still, the foundation stone was laid for a great museum during that same royal visit.

After taking in the Gateway we went looking for a late breakfast. We ended up at Loepold's. A bar and restaraunt popular with tourists and ex-pats for many years. It features in one of the books Kate and I are reading so we wanted to see the real thing. Our exciting first meal in India: Scrambled eggs on toast and a diet coke. I guess we have to ease ourselves into these things ;).

We wander down the street past the many stalls, often pressed by store owners to look at this or look at that. There are no shortages of offers of Rickshaws or to polish our shoes or any other of a 1001 services and products.

The architecture is amazing. Much of it built during the British Era including the world heritage listed Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus or Victoria Terminus where we head to book our first train journey to Jodhpur

With our escape out of Mumbai sorted we head over to Chowpatty beach to watch the sunset with thousands of locals. Kate and I sip chai and enjoy a great head and shoulder massage.

We try some local food at the beach market. Hmmm good Panpuri... Life is good.

Photos not with me now so will add later.

One night in Mumbai

We have arrived. Safely.

Tired from the flight, we clear customs, change some money and prepay our taxi fare. In the confusion of a new airport and country we miss the toilet stop and getting some food but we are determined to get some sleep so we find our taxi.

We are quickly learning the value of small money for tipping. having given several generous tips already.

The taxi ride was a feast for the senses convincing us we had arrived in India. Drivers, including ours, honked their horn repeatedly flashing lights at the many small transgressions that everyone was guilty of. Road rules seem more like guidelines- sort of keep left, sort of give way, sort of just push your way through, sort of not hit the pedestrians. Wing mirrors don't exist here and if they did then they wouldn't last long.

We drove past slums and mansions (more of the former), wondering which part of town our hotel was in. It was noisy, crowded, dirty and smelly but we were coocooned in our taxi and we could not take our senses of it all. Occasionally a wiff of some wonderful indian food reached our noses or we caught a glimpse of fireworks, which he had also seen from the plane before landing.

Mobile discos cruised along the streets with bright lights and music entertainging the revellers. At the front drummers and musicians, followed by the clientelle, while the rear was bought up by a truck and a rickety generator on wheels spewing out fumes. It is a novel place to have a boogie but does not help the traffic flow.

We arrived at our hotel. A small archway below a sign in a dingy looking building-what was it like inside? We checked in went to our room. Generously tipped our porter as we had no small notes and surveyed our surroundings. Simple, relatively clean, a place to lay our heads-a relief.

Last thoughts on Australia

Sunday morning I enjoy my last shower in Australia. I take little for granted, including this, for I don't know for sure what the next four weeks hold. It is not that we expect none of the luxuries we are used to to be available-rather they will be luxuries.

It is funny how so many things we enjoy we don't notice until we consider their absence. I guess taking things for granted is a luxury in itself.

The easy bit is out of the way-train ride to the airport, check in, departure passport check and security-including a pat down for me. I always was the dodgy looking sort.

Now the real adventure begins... Darwin airport. No not really but it did give us a taste of the tropical humidity.

Departure from Parkes - not exciting

So here my journey begins at Parkes airport. This is the first entry that I've used my PDA to write. So please excuse any random typos.

Firstly, I should clear up any misconceptions: there is no ring.

Secondly, it is funny how often I've been asked wether I have packed my bags yet. For the next four weeks I have to carry everything. I'm not going to carry much so it shouldn't take long to pack. Should it?

1 more sleep

And now it is only 1 more sleep until we leave our respective home towns, and knowing John's travelling style I am sure that I am more prepared than he is. I'm pretty sure he might only just be getting his backpack out of the cupboard!!! :)

Seven more sleeps

Just one week out from our departure to India. I'm thinking it is time to figure out where I put my back pack and how many pairs of underwear I'll need to pack. I suspect Kate is more organised than me.