Closing of the border

A day before Pakistan descended into defacto marshall law we made the hour trip from Amritsar to the only border crossing between India and Pakistan-Wagah near Attari. Each day at around sunset a bazaar ceremony of goose stepping soldiers, flag lowering, and slogan cheering is performed at the border.

On each side of the border large grandstands are filled with Indians and Pakistanis out to vent their national pride, and a few tourists like us to witness the spectacle. Imagine a football match between two traditional rivals and you might get some feeling for the build-up in the crowd. On the far side of the Indian gate house we could see the Indian troops warm up for the ceremony with viperous star-jumps as crowds danced in segregated Ladies an Gents only dancing areas.

At the appointed time the dancing crowds returned to the grand stand and the twenty-minute ceremony of salutes, quick marching and throwing of flag strings began. It was very much a competition of national pride and among the most unusual things I have ever seen.

Amritsar is also home to holiest of Sikh temples - the Golden Temple. Just over two years ago, in a curious Hong Kong travel-experience, a man claiming to be a Yogi from the Golden Temple told me when I was going to die. Despite the readings of the Sikh holy books being broadcast across loudspeakers the temple complex was a peaceful place, where many Sikhs come to make their most important and desired pilgrimage. For me, in a strange and much less spiritually important way, this too was a pilgrimage.